I'm not Lion

Walking from Villarente to Leon made for a short day. Only 12k. Child's play! It was a Patron Saint Day, so Leon was filled with local dancers from the region, and there were festivals throughout the city. It finally rained when I arrived. I felt like feeling rich so I splurged for a ten euro room that included free laundry, late curfew, and late check out. Normally it is three to four euros to wash, curfew is ten or ten thirty, and check out is eight. Well worth the cost!

I began eating at ten am and did not stop until eleven pm. I met Odei, Jose, and Alejandrina. Spanish speakers are good friends to have, because they ask the locals for recommendations. The cathedral may have been better than the one in Burgos. I am a sucker for stained glass. The audioguide included the cathedral's architectural history which interested me. Outside there was a man slicing fresh cecina. We ate so many samples! Odei from San Sebastian and Jose from Sevilla said it was the best they have had in their lives. It is similar to jamon iberico but from cows. Genius.

We ate tapas in the Barrio Humedo which included pizza, hamburgers, morcilla (blood sausage), chips, nuts, olives, and tortilla. Then we found a cake typical of Leon. It was a feast day. Jose stopped a news reporter to tell her we were all friends from England, USA, Japan, Ireland, Spain, and Chile that met on the Camino. It aired on channel eight at four! We ended at a place with gigantic tapas - cecina and fried eggs and chips and bacon. It was nice to be out late enough to be with real Spanish people. We watched a short Spanish film in a square that had a lot of gore, violence, and ballet. It was right up my alley.

I have one question, what is your answer?

A dear friend emailed me asking for my answer to a previous post. I think it is really important, and I am thankful for his thoughtful question.

"Small talk does not exist here. I have shared more in a few hours with strangers than I have with some of my oldest friends. Everyone asks why you are here and what you are looking for  and where you think you are going."

Why I'm here:
I felt that my life was in disarray, and I was filled with self-doubt about attending law school, leaving San Diego, quitting Procopio, etc. I thought the Camino could help sort it all out. I spend anywhere from five to ten hours hiking each day. It is interesting what comes to the forefront of your mind. I have been able to focus on what I value and what is important to me, with no distractions. Sometimes I can be such a square. I hope to return with a lighter heart. Everything will always work out!

What I'm looking for:
Clarity. I have discovered I need to believe in myself and have more confidence. In the past, I have talked myself out of doing things before I even try. It is dumb! You always strike out if you never step up to the plate, right? I frequently let fear hold me back from trying new things. Many have asked what my passion is. Right now I feel my passion is working really hard, learning as much as I can, and being successful in my career. I have had the privilege to work with many impressive attorneys that I greatly admire and respect. I want to be just like them! I have many interests but nothing that I am truly passionate about. Interests are all anyone ever really cares to hear about. Is it an instrument, travelling, writing? Everyone here has differing life perspectives, and I am captivated by their narratives.

Where I think I'm going:
I don't know, but I think that is part of the journey. I plan too much. I realized I need to spend more money on travel. I hate that it took me four years to return to Europe. I spend a lot of hours each day planning my next trip(s). People here decide to do something, and then they do it. The sentiment is contagious! My dream is to do Machu Picchu. It would maybe cost me $1,500. Why haven't I done it yet? I have plenty of money, and I will always make more money. It is silly. It is overwhelming and exciting to be young. I can go anywhere and do anything. The options are endless! 

Vino Camino

I took an alternate path that lead to a mud-brick albergue in El Burgo Ranero. I told Frank I would be stopping in a different city by mistake. I wonder if I will see him again along the way. It is sad when Camino friends part ways. Such is life.

Gil, John, and Gretchen cooked community dinner for the group. We had salad, pasta, ice cream, bread, and wine. For the seven of us it was forty-two euros. It was a much needed family, home-cooked meal.

Villarente was my next destination. I spent the day with Belinda from Australia. We stopped in a lovely, rustic albergue with a beautiful garden. It was a calm, easy-going night. I went to a little market to pick up dinner, and when I asked for bread, the woman told me to go up the way to the bread shop. There I spent 80 cents for a baguette, and I thought to myself that the market should sell it for 60 cents. I am such a little capitalist!

Tom is graduating from university when he gets back from the Camino. He is from Canterbury, which is where I studied abroad. He loves cricket, beer, and being English. He studied American history and knows a lot more than I do. He does really terrible impressions of American presidents. He loves a girl named Lucy but won't admit it.

Belinda was laid off from her insurance job, so she took her severance and has been travelling for nearly a year. She trekked in Nepal. There was not one bad photo! It made me very excited for Charli. I invited Andy to come do it with me next summer. I hope it works out! Trekking may be my new thing. Belinda shared with me that her mother died at age 68 with a ton of money in the bank. She had always wanted to travel abroad but never did.

Gil lives in Indiana and spent part of his childhood in Mexico. He is very polite, thoughtful, and likeable. He translates at an elementary school and is going to night school. He plays five or six instruments and used to tour. He's a gem.
John is from Ireland. He is frequently shirtless and is always searching for a pint. He looks out for me, and acts as a fun camino dad. He lost his business and then his wife divorced him, so he decided to go to college. It sounds like he has come a long way in the past couple of years.

I have decided to walk an extra three days to the "end of the world." What's another fifty-five miles when you've already walked five hundred? I also have been invited to run with the bulls, so I may do that too. I am terrified of dying, but Frank told me that fear leads you to the direction you need to go, so Pamplona, here I come!

Happy Half Birthday to Me!

What a glorious day! I felt very celebrated.  Everyone in the albergue sang me happy birthday in English and Spanish during breakfast. Carolina from Colombia gave me bubbles, Frank bought me a giant pack of Oreos and a fake flower, the hostel lowered the price of my room, and we put a candle in a Bueno and I made a wish. 

Frank shared with me that his passion is to be a life coach. When I told him that one of my goals is to be more present and appreciative in the moment as opposed to always moving on to the next thing, he asked for an example. I told him that when I graduated from university I never really celebrated - I checked it off my list of things to do and spent too much time stressing about finding a job. He insisted that we drop our bags, dance to music, jump as high as we can, and scream at the top of our lungs. We laughed a lot. I told him later in the day about my mom and he stopped me from walking, gave me a giant, long bear hug, and said, 'I'm so sorry.' It was a great moment of two humans being humans. He is such a dear.

I taught Frank the words 'cinch' and 'curfew' in English, and he taught me the difference between 'plano' and 'llano' in Spanish.

I'm enjoying the last blue skies I will ever see before I move to San Francisco. The last few days have been wonderful! 

Dr. Murphy

They say after two weeks the soreness leaves you and the daily preparation process becomes routine. Tomorrow marks two weeks since I first arrived in St. Jean. Tomorrow I will hit the halfway point to Santiago de Compostela. And It is my half birthday! What a special day. It is wild to think that everyday someone is travelling the road I travelled the day prior. I am excited for those arriving to Santiago today, and I am even more excited for those beginning in St. Jean.

I am officially part of the pilgrim feet club! I alcohol swabbed the blister, punctured it with my needle, and tied the thread into a loop. My dad would be so proud! It didn't even hurt. Now it is draining pus. It may be my biggest accomplishment to date. Hell yes! I am doing things I never thought I could do before, and I am digging it.

I found out this morning that I have been offered my own place at school. Such a relief! I fantasized about decorating and about all the delicious foods I plan to make. The glow-in-the-dark solar system poster is going up first thing. My first meal will be a quinoa, almond butter, brown sugar, milk thing that I have been dreaming up. I also want to buy blue toilet paper like my grandpa used to have at his house. Such luxury!

Burgos

Burgos was my favorite big city that we have passed through. I arrived early and drank beers with my new crew before noon. The albergue was near the cathedral, which was free after 4:30 on Tuesday. It was incredible! I ate pasta at a bar and wrote my twelve postcards while eating churros con chocolate. There I met Frank from Buenos Aires. Finally a South American! I was very excited. We walked to the post office together and then chatted until the match started. I have watched soccer every night. Sometimes I am thankful for curfew, because otherwise we'd stay out all night!

Many of my new friends stayed in Burgos for another day, and for some that is where their journey ends. Today Frank and I found shade and shared our travelling stories, talked about family, and compared Camino scars, bruises, and sunburns. Frank wanted to learn German so he moved and found a job. Next he wanted to learn how to ski so he moved to Switzerland. He began walking in Paris. And he is doing the Camino on a unicycle! I had actually heard of him and his friend Joaquin before I had met them. They are quite the characters! Rumor has it that Joaquin is a real Rico Suave. Camino gossip!

Lost and Found

I did 38km yesterday! Now I am over a day ahead of my guidebook.

I led a few folks astray when I made an incorrect left turn the other day. They were wonderful people to be lost with. Damien and Lorraine are from Ireland and Pilar is from the Canary Islands. We were off the path for a good thirty-five minutes, but it was through the rolling vineyards of La Rioja. I am sure there are worse places to be lost. I wanted to keep walking with them, but they were stopping much earlier than I intended. Pilar said the leftover wine from the region is sold to Italy and a new label is put on the bottle. Scandalous!

Small talk does not exist here. I have shared more in a few hours with strangers than I have with some of my oldest friends. Everyone asks why you are here and what you are looking for and where you think you are going. Real talk.

Sometimes the Camino feels easy. I follow the yellow brick road. I meet the tin man and the cowardly lion and the scarecrow each day. Everyone is on their way to see Oz. Being lost was grounding and humbling. It made me appreciate being found.

At the hostel after I was lost I found John. I was so happy! It was like having dinner with an old friend, even though we spent only two days apart and have only known each other for eight. It was really nice.

Yesterday was my first day walking entirely alone. I practiced interview questions aloud, sang Michael Jackson songs, and composed some pretty bad raps. I fell asleep at a bar at eleven am and later took a nap on a park bench. I had dinner with Bob from Canada and Frida from Germany. He asked a lot of questions about date rape drugs and ecstasy. He asked if I would be worried if I put my drink down unattended. I thought to myself, 'Well now I am!'

Tonight I met Emily from Napa, and she basically has my dream life. She was teaching English in Sevilla for the past year. She met her boyfriend Victor there, and now they are moving to Brazil for three months and then to Peru for three months. I told her I was going to law school in the fall. I have learned that is not a crowd pleaser, and it can make almost any walking companion decide to speed up their pace. People do find it interesting that I am a cheerleader and from California. I will try to stick to those talking points going forward.

Estella to Navarette

Yesterday was the most challenging day by far. It began with a stop at the Irache Wine Fountain, which reads: 'Pilgrim, if you wish to arrive at Santiago full of strength and vitality, have a drink of this great wine and make a toast to happiness.' And since I want to arrive at Santiago full of strength and vitality I did just that - drank before eight am. It was the best free wine from a fountain that I have ever had.

Then I spent five hours hiking while swatting at flies. I wish I had a tail on my face. I met Peter Klein from Budapest in Sansol. He is a designer for Perez Hilton's website. When I didn't initially understand what he said, he clarified. 'Big, celebrity, gossip, gay.' Sometimes it is like playing charades.

I walked 32km today. I have not listened to music since I began a week ago. I did talk to myself for a bit today. I spend a good hour per day fantasizing about ditching everything in my backpack. Here is what I will do next time:

The best things that have ever happened to me:

- Sleeping bag liner (I have not contracted any diseases yet)
- Hiking boots (After using improper footwear on my last two European backpacking trips, I promised I would never do it again)
- Guide book (Some brought lightweight versions with less information, but I like learning the history of what I'm walking by)

Things I could do without:

- Running shoes (My hiking boots do the job just fine)
- Northface (I would only bring the rain jacket, not the zip in fleece)
- Enough medicine for a hospital (If I don't take medicine at home, what made me think I would take it here?)

I got to Logrono early and decided to treat myself to churros con chocolate. When I finished the churros, the woman asked if I wanted milk in my cup. WHY DIDN'T I KNOW THIS 100 CHURROS CON CHOCOLATES AGO? If I learn nothing else on this trip, it has been well worth it. Now I will be enjoying a glass of chocolate milk after every churros con chocolate. Thanks bartender lady!

Buen Camino

Pilgrims always say 'Buen Camino' to one another, and locals say it to us as we trek through their villages. It is lovely!

I slept in until seven but regretted it later when the sun was beating down on my neck late in the afternoon. I ate lunch in a park - a day old hot ham and cheese sandwich and untreated fountain water. Yum! A man passed me and asked if my bag was better. When I looked at him confused, he said he had been in the first hostel when the ladies dismantled my backpack. He said he was finished checking in but stayed to watch because it was better than television.

I tried kalimotxo today, which is half red wine and half Coca-Cola. It is no Bailey's and Diet Coke, but I did like it!

I got my first blister today. SO EXCITED! I might perform surgery in a few days but I'm nervous! I am supposed to take a needle and thread and puncture the blister and tie off the thread. This allows the blister to continue to ooze out pus. I worry I do not have the stomach for it. I will definitely post photos for friends and family :)

I crossed a lot of bridges today and there were no troll tolls so I was happy about that.

USA! USA!

This morning at breakfast as I was about to put what I believed to be honey on my buttered toast a Spanish woman sitting near me gasped. She told me it was olive oil and that I should try putting olive oil, sugar, and then olive oil on the bread. It was perfection! The table laughed when I went to make two more and laughed again when I said 'Es mejor!'

I walked up to the famous pilgrim statue at Alto de Perdon. It read: 'Donde se cruza del viento con el de las estrellas.' ('Where the way of wind meets the way of the stars.') It is said that if pilgrims made it to the summit their sins would be forgiven.

I met Pablo from Madrid this afternoon. He asked if I got hungry during the night since we eat dinner at seven and don't eat breakfast until eight. I wanted to tell him about Taco Bell's fourth meal but decided against it. This is his eighth time doing the Camino, although he has never completed it. He said the northern path along the coast was his favorite. He also said the food in Galicia was the best in all of Spain. He recently found out his girlfriend cheated on him with his friend six months ago, so he came looking for answers. There are a lot of broken hearts on the Camino. Poor Pablo!

We talk frequently of the people we have met and wonder how they are doing. I think of Dana from Tennessee, wagon guy, Chelsea Handler, the bread girl, the couple that always picnics, Terry Bradshaw, the teacher, Laura from South Carolina, the drunk Irish guy (redundant), the injured Scottish guy, and the Marine.

After dinner I learned how to play Mau Mau (essentially Uno) with a Dutch girl, a German, an Irishman, and an Australian. I won! I obnoxiously chanted 'USA! USA!' And they told me to go back to America.  Victory!

Wee-Fee

I woke up in Larrasoana to a rooster crowing. Every morning my calves and shoulders are sore. I charged ahead of the boys and spent the morning daydreaming. Martin is the best at downhilll, John owns at uphill, and I am Speedy Gonzales on flat ground.

I love that sometimes we have a chat and sometimes we march in silence. I enjoy learning something new about them each day. Martin Nugent is in Ireland's Reserves. He was once a plumber and a construction worker. Now he is going to school to be a social worker and plans to help recovering heroin addicts. He speaks frequently of his trip to Thailand and is obsessed with Finland. John Nelson is from Long Island. His fiancee broke up with him a month ago so he quit his job and decided to do the Camino. Since 2013 he has lost 150 pounds. He wants to be a high school teacher and a fitness trainer.

Martin told me there are two types of attorneys in Ireland - barristers and soliciters. Barristers go before the court and try cases. Soliciters act as a halfway man (or woman) between barristers and clients, because barristers are not allowed to correspond directly with clients. He says a barrister is nothing without his relationships with the soliciters. Martin can't believe how much law school will cost but also can't believe the income potential.

We walked through Pamplona today, which is the city where running of the bulls takes place every July. Their Spanish is very easy to understand! It is unkind to have beginning students learn Spanish in Andalucia. I experienced a bit of shock walking through the city. It was the first time in days I saw humans other than pilgrims. Sometimes while walking I can only hear the faint sound of a cowbell in the distance or birds chirping. Today we dodged cars like Frogger.

The albergue in Cizur Menor was five euros and includes breakfast. We put our boots in a separate room before we dropped off our bags. The entire hostel reeked of old man feet. Martin and I split the bottle of wine served with our pilgrim menu.

The Pyrenees and the Start of the Camino

My last three posts didn't save properly, so I will do my best to remember all that has happened on the journey so far. 

I left Paris for Bayonne, where I met Martin from Ireland. We took a bus to St. Jean and picked up our credencial, or official pilgrim passport. The folks that checked us in insisted my bag was too heavy, so they had me empty it out in front of the crowd. They booed and cheered as I attempted to justify what I needed. I ended up stealing back my deodorant and face lotion. The French woman and I did a celebratory dance when we re-weighed my bag. It went from nearly fourteen kilos to just over ten. The British woman told me she wished I was her daughter. Her husband apologized for the public humiliation and thanked me for being a good sport. I thanked them for helping me!

They say the first day is the hardest, and if people drop out it is usually after day four. The hike over the Pyrenees was tough, but the views and the cows and sheep made up for it. The uphill did not let up. The final five kilometers were downhill, and even though we never thought we would wish for uphill again, we wished for it then.

The albergue (pilgrim hostel) in Roncesvalles was large and clean. I paid 2.70 euros for laundry service. Being clean on the Camino is a luxury. At six pm the monastery held a special mass for pilgrims. There was a wonderful sense of international community as the priest named all the countries represented. I couldn't understand much, but my favorite part was when we all said 'Peace be with you' in our native languages to one another. It was a beautiful moment that I will never forget. I met an Irishman who said when he was out drinking that night the priest invited him and a group of Spanish people into a special room of the monastery where he saw a purported thorn from Christ's crown of thorns. Neat!

The hostels begin the hustle and bustle at six am every morning, and we are on the road by six thirty. It is interesting and comforting to see the same people along the way - sometimes you're ahead and sometimes you're behind. We all have the same end goal. Paul and Ferrah are a couple that live in Dublin, and we cross paths nearly everyday. Paul is a member of European's Parliament (MEP) and Ferrah teaches world religion at Trinity. She had Joffrey from Game of Thrones as a student and said he was sweet and bright. I told them they were a power couple and they 'had a giggle.' I have picked up a few common phrases from Martin, including saying that everything is either shit or grand. 

People ask a lot about family, and I love bragging about my brothers and Katelyn and hearing about everyone's traditions, customs, and life histories. It makes the ten hours of hiking move quickly. We hike on roads, over rivers, through woods, rocks, grass, cobblestone, in cities, and in the middle of nowhere. I think the bicyclists are the true heroes. I don't know how they do it.

All the restaurants have peregrino menus, and we always overeat. I can't tell if the food is delicious or mediocre, because we are always so hungry by the time we plop down our bags. I somehow became the Spanish speaker of the group. It is incredible how much I have changed since the last time I was in Spain. Speaking Spanish to strangers is not as frightening as I remember.