La Paz meant being reunited with my German twin bbs Amelie and Franzie! After arriving at 5:30am, I napped in the hostel lobby until my friends were awake. We caught up over pancakes and they took me around La Paz. We took the cable cars to a rooftop restaurant while we waited for the German election results, which were troubling. I was happy the cable cars were a means of affordable public transportation for the locals, rather than just for tourists.
We went to Cholitas Wrestling, which was an odd experience with a neat history. Our tickets were VIP, meaning we sat separately from the Bolivian locals, which sucked. We ate popcorn and drank coke and bought souvenirs. I'm glad I went, but remind me why people like WWF?
The next day, we hiked around Valle de la Luna, which is located about an hour outside of the city. Neil Armstrong said the landscape reminded him of the moon! I love space.
Next, the girls took me to the witches market where I bought the quintessential sweater than every South American backpacker wears. It was ten bucks and it will probably last me ten minutes. We ate at a touristy restaurant with neat decor. We ordered wayyy too much food and got the giggles when the "Chocolate Creation" came out. We thought the waiter forgot our order so we tried to get our check, but he assured us our chocolate sundae with an entire pack of Oreos in it was on its way. We lost it.
More goodbyes! I was beyond bummed to say bye to the twins. To avoid a friend hangover, I planned an overnight trip to Lake Titicaca the day they left. Lake Titicaca is the world's highest navigable lake, and was much larger than I expected. I booked with Bolivia Hop, a company that I tried to use in Peru but it was closed for the holidays.
After bus, boat, lunch in Copacabana, drive, another boat, and a hike, I made it to Isla Del Sol. Ryan suggested staying there so I did! The trout was fresh and delicious. The north of the island was closed, but we couldn't really tell where the border was for hiking purposes. Three others decided to stay the night at Isla Del Sol too, so we balled (spent $15) and got a room on the water. I could hear the waves crash from my bed! The island reminded me of Santorini - hills, sunsets, donkeys, stairs, and all.
I stayed with Nick from SF who quit his job to pursue travel photography. He is ten years older than me and one hundred times more well traveled. He told his travel stories in an unpretentious and non-braggy way that I enjoyed. He always shared his treats and was generous with the locals. He said he'd take me to dinner at his favorite spot in Redwood City when he gets back. Touched!
I switched hostels in La Paz to world-renowned party hostel Wild Rover. Why would I want to stay in such a dreadful place? Because it offers free Wednesdays and a book four nights, get one night free deal. I stayed for five nights for $30. My first night I saw a drunk guy fall down the stairs and crack his skull open. We're talking blood!
I did a walking tour where I learned about the fusion between Catholicism and the ancient religions of La Paz. The guides told us that before a building is built, the workers sacrifice a white llama. For larger building projects, a larger sacrifice is needed. Rumor has it that a homeless man is sacrificed for those buildings. The architects and engineers don't ask questions about it, but the workers will not start until the sacrifice is made.
I also learned that the Bolivian president says crazy shit just like Trump. He tried to get men to stop eating chicken because chickens are pumped with hormones, and he doesn't want Bolivian men to "turn gay." He also tried to tax women over age 18 who didn't have children. Sounds like solid logic.
The tour guides Alison and Franco also took us to El Alto, which has the largest flea market in all of South America. Unfortunately, I didn't find anything, but I did try api and pastel, which was like a hot, thick chica drink and a deep fried pocket with cheese and powdered sugar on top for 4 Bolivianos or 48 cents.
I survived death road (look it up on YouTube!) but never again. I was terrified. They bussed us to the top and we put on protective gear and tested the bikes. We biked for 45 minutes on a paved road with cars that was very steep. It was so cold I couldn't feel my hands or feet, and I was genuinely scared. We did a short gravel road and my bike skid all over the place. I'm really glad I didn't watch those YouTube videos before I signed up.
At the start of death road, I thought I was going to cry. But it actually wasn't as bad as the first paved portion! At times the road is just 3.5 meters wide. I was the slowest person in the group but being cautious is one of the things I most like about myself. We stopped for snacks and the guide showed us where people have died. Franco, the guy that I booked the tour through, told me that no one has died in the last seven years. Lies! A Bolivian girl died in December! She slipped on the waterfall corner of the road. Loads of others have died too. One guy died taking a selfie, a guide got hit by a car that pushed him off the ledge, and another guy was going so fast around a corner he flew off.
The last 6k was the most treacherous, but also the most fun because by that point I was as comfortable as a terrified scaredy cat can be. Afterwards, we had a buffet lunch and got to swim in a hotel pool. The next day I was sore. My hands were especially sore from riding that back brake for the entire road. Warning to all those riding death road with Altitude - do not use bike 8! It's impossible those brakes recovered from me death-gripping them nonstop for 40 miles.
That night I decided to celebrate life so I went upstairs to the Wild Rover bar. I ordered Thai soup, which was too healthy, so I ordered a plate of curry fries next. I tried the Bolivian drink called Chuflay. It is singani and ginger ale. I loved it! Since I forgot to try fernet and coke in Argentina, I ordered that too. It was the grossest. I let everyone at the bar try it, and then the bartender made me a delicious chuflay instead. We played a version of flip cup and a Belgium drinking game that was basically Gaucho Ball. I wasn't feeling it so I Irish goodbyed at 10:30pm and ate candy in bed. Ideal!
It's been a month since my Brazilian in Brazilian, so that means it was time for a Bikini in Bolivia. I went to many salons before I found one. The woman said it was 80 at first, but after she was done she said it was 100. Still only $15! She really got up in there too. Luckily we could have a chat in Spanish, unlike my Portuguese speaking waxer in São Paulo. Only one more wax in Guatemala until I'm home in SF!
My girl Alex congratulated me on being halfway though my trip, but warned me against counting down the days until I'm home. It was a great reminder to be present, because I'm doing cool shit and still have many more adventures ahead of me!
