"Let's Make Party"

On my way to morning mass I welcomed Emily, Miriam, Richard, Alejandrina, Odei, Tom, and Belinda to Santiago. Like Steven did for me, I showed them all of the places they needed to go. Everywhere I turn there is a familiar face. It feels like it is our city!

I stopped by a precious place named As Maria near my albergue for an afternoon coffee and treat. I never want to leave! My albergue is clean, it has private/hot showers, the workers are super nice, it has a great internet connection, they play awesome music, and it has a terrace, tv, big kitchen, dining area, and lobby. It is worth every penny of the seventeen euros per night.

Jose had his sister's friend that lives in Santiago take us to a place that was not touristy or overpriced, and she ended up showing us As Maria! I knew I had a good sense for these sort of things. The foods we ate were some of my favorites I have had in Spain so far: french fries, stroganoff, chicken wings, falafel, croquetas, zalzo, and homemade liquor. I was heart broken when they were closed on Monday. I had planned to eat every meal there!

The following morning on my way to the train information center I saw Xenia and Christy. Xenia is my favorite person to run into, because she is always bright and cheery and smiling. I took them to the tourist office, checked them into my albergue, showed them the jewelry shop where I bought my necklace, and walked to the grocery store and panaderia. I left them to go eat lunch when I was found by Gil, Niklas, and Gretchen. My people! Gil said they had been asking if people had seen me, and he said they searched in every bar for three days trying to find me. We exchanged emails first thing to ensure it doesn't happen again! 

I can't imagine lacing up my boots again now that I have arrived in Santiago. I am surprised that part of me does not want to walk to Finesterre. I am having too much fun celebrating with friends and talking about all of the wonderful times we have shared together. Slowly but surely, everyone is heading on or heading out. Gil is trying to convince me to go to the beach with him and stay with his friend, and I am tempted. Many that said they were continuing have decided against it. Maybe I need a few days to sort out all of the fabulous celebrations and final conversations. It has been a whirlwind.

Ellie said she loves how positive I always am. Peter said I inspired him everyday to keep walking when he saw me pass him. Frank said he immediately wanted to get to know me after seeing how much I was laughing and smiling across the terrace at the bar. Steven said I was a joy to know and that I was a confident, strong, and happy walker and person. What an experience!

June 7 - July 5

After 500 miles in 29 days, I made it to Santiago. I hope I never forget this feeling! On my way in, I was greeted by Steven. I was the first person he saw that he knew. It was a joyous moment, and we embraced. I was very happy to see him. After the worst blisters I have ever seen and getting bed bugs in Leon, he beat me in by eight hours. He told me he did a 65k day. Crazed!

The cathedral was another 5k into the city. Such a tease! I dropped off my backpack for two euros and made it in time for noon mass. When the nun started singing, I teared up a bit. She had the voice of an angel! There were hundreds in attendance; we worked hard and long for this moment. In the last 20k, I thought about the support I have at home. I am thankful for them believing me to be things I didn't think I was: brave, fearless, strong. I was congratulated by strangers during the final hour of walking. I saw pilgrims laugh, hug, cry, collapse, dance, and sing when they made it to the square in front of the cathedral.

I am especially happy I made it to the noon mass, because I saw the botafumiero, which normally only makes an appearance on special occasions. It is the largest censer for spreading incense smoke in the world. It was installed to cover the stench of unwashed pilgrims. It weighs 175 pounds and is five feet tall. It swings back and forth on a pulley system, and it takes eight men to get it going! It is said the botafumiero will come out for a donation of 300 euros. Thank you generous pilgrim! It was quite a spectacle.

I went to the pilgrim office to get my Compostela, and I also got a personalized distance certification (and by personalized they mean handwritten). A volunteer congratulated me for beginning in St. Jean and gave me an extra congratulations for being American and doing the entire trek.

I plan to be here for a few days to meet up with friends that are one to two days behind me. I am beyond excited for them, and I can't wait to share this experience. It is the best feeling in the world.

At my going away party, a friend commended me for setting out on my own and told me she wouldn't even see a movie by herself.

I hope she ended up seeing that movie.

So close!

In Palas de Rei, I stopped off the path to pick up groceries. I went nuts! I bought two packs of Principes, shampoo, a banana, bread, cheese, ham, a tomato, and a Milka. A woman in her car stopped me to let me know I was heading in the wrong direction. After the store when I was eating my lunch, a man asked if I needed help finding the Camino. So sweet! I slept in Melide, home of Pulpo Gallego aka boiled octopus. I need to try it, but Odei suggested getting it in Finesterre since I will be closer to the coast.

I kept getting off track on my way to Arca. I think I am distracted, because I am so close to Santiago. At a donativo stand two boys stopped me and said they donated five euros but only took four euros of stuff. They offered the remaining euro to me if I wanted to take something. Muy amable! I decided on homemade coffee cake. I was so delighted, I skipped along right off the trail. A man came out of his house and told me to turn around and make a left near the fruit stand. I ran into two Spanish girls who made the same mistake, so I directed them the right way.

I stopped in Arzua, a city known for its delicious creamy cheese. I poked my head into a meat and cheese shop and asked if they were open. It was owned by a husband and wife team. They said I was brave for coming so far from home by myself to do the Camino. She had large blocks of cheese for sale, but I told her I just wanted to try it. She broke open one and only charged me eighty-five cents. Bless her heart! I asked her if I can eat the rind, and she said yes but it would be hard. After second thought, she asked for it back, undid the wrapping, and cut off the rind for me. All those years of Spanish really paid off!

I took a lunch break by the river and ate my sandwich, cheese, and cashews. It was an afternoon well spent. I did laundry in Arca so I will be glammed upon my arrival to Santiago.

Side note - I smashed my phone screen when I knocked it off a table onto cobblestone. Cool story though! Also, apparently the hottest yogurt in town in blackberry greek yogurt, because it has been stolen from me twice!

Orandi Causa

Here are some fun facts:
     - Although now the standard greeting is Buen Camino, in medieval times it was ultreia meaning 'further onward,' with the standard response being et suseia  'and further upward,' highlighting the physical and spiritual aspects of the journey.
     - Over 150,000 people walk the Camino per year, and over one million medieval pilgrims underwent the journey.
     - Santiago is one of three main Christian pilgrimage sites, along with Rome and Jerusalem.
     - Codex Calixtinus, the first Camino guidebook, was written in the 12th century.
     - Many pilgrims walk with a scallop shell, which is common along the Galician coast. The shell is said to represent the fingers of an open hand, symbolizing the good deeds expected of a pilgrim. Another interpretation is that the lines of the shell, which converge at a single point, represent the pilgrimage roads convening in Santiago. Those who died were buried with their shell.

Craving Veggies

I was surprised to see Dan from Philly and Jimmy from Atlanta, along with Dan's dad, in Gonzar. Dan's dad treated us to dinner. I had a typical Spanish combination plate: French fries, fried eggs, and chorizo. I cannot wait to eat a vegetable again!

Dan and Jimmy are both engineers and friends from college. Dan is interested in ministry and has served in South Sudan and Jamaica. They may be the coolest young Catholics I will ever meet. They made me laugh.

The beds in the albergue are sometimes pushed together, so even though they are two twins, it can feel like you are sharing a bed with a stranger. I told them it is awkward with a person you don't know, but once it happened with a person I had been walking with, and although I thought it would be better, it was still awkward. After dinner Dan found me and asked if I would like to switch beds with him because he had a single against a wall. I thanked him but said it was ok because I thought the person next to me was a lady. He then told me that if it ended up being a smelly, old, creepy man the offer would still stand. Very sweet!

Sarria Not Sarria

Many pilgrims begin in Sarria, because it is near the 100k mark. Walking 100k (biking 200k) is the minimum needed to receive the Compostela (certificate of completion). In the morning at the albergue, a Spanish man was styling his hair. Very posh. I am looking more haggard with each passing day. We all have our luxury item. Mine are my jeans! I guess his is hair gel.

I saw Peter the teacher from day three or four. What a treat! His friend Terry got a parasite and had to bus part of the way. I would be devastated! Although now that I am so close, I don't think anything could stop me from walking the rest of the way.

I took an hour and a half break in Portomarin. It was a neat city on the river. When I bought a yogurt at the store the old man working gave me a spoon. What a difference a spoon makes! I was using my knife until I got nervous, and now I use my finger. I will eat my lemon yogurt like a proper lady.

Usually I buy coffee two hours into my morning, mostly because I have to use the restroom. Cafe con leche is amazing, and it is only one euro. I jokingly say I pay a bathroom tax, because I buy a little something a few times per day. I bought my coffee and a sweet at a tiny store and asked where the restroom was. She told me in Spanish it was to the left in a small, white house. When I couldn't find it, I asked again, thinking I misunderstood. I heard another woman ask earlier, and she couldn't find it either. I walked around and asked a local where this house was, and she didn't know what I was talking about. I saw the same lady at the next cafe, and I'm assuming she bought another coffee so she could use the restroom. This is an outrage! This woman scammed me into buying a delicious treat, knowing I had to use the restroom. She can't get away with this! I decided to take revenge. If I am going to be Queen of the Jungle, I will have to show her who's boss. I peed on her property. It was a spiteful pee. I hope her flowers die and her coffee turns cold!

I may have lost my mind. Too many days alone? 

Queen of the Jungle

I did 42k (aka full marathon), and it was the most treacherous day yet! I began my descent early in the rain and fog, and it was so dark I had to use a flashlight. When I stopped for coffee (which was really just for survival) my hands were so frozen the man had to help get my money out. I had icicles forming on my pants.

Next, my boot got stuck in quicksand mud, and I had to grab onto a nearby branch to free myself. I said aloud, 'Queen of the Jungle!' Later in the day, I saw what I thought was a pilgrim in the distance, but it was a bear/wolf/dog that I couldn't get around. I tried sneaking past him, but then his dog friend came out and snarled at me. I thought, 'I'm going to have to kill this motherfucker.' When I reached down for a rock, they both came towards me and began circling. They were more terrifying than the stray dogs in Bucharest. I fantasized about offering one my left arm and then punching the other one and then kicking the one that ate my arm. I didn't want to run because I thought they would chase me. The old Spanish guy I began with in the morning couldn't be more than fifteen minutes behind me. Would I bleed out before then? Literally all of these thoughts went through my head. Finally, I slyly escaped and as soon as I was far enough away I said, 'Queen of the Jungle!' I also slipped on horse poop on some cobble stone and almost fell in a river, but I didn't say 'Queen of the Jungle' then because in that moment I was more clumsy than a conqueror.

I took a gamble and bought a Chips Ahoy Milka. It was a mistake. I also bought a knife for cutting bread and tomatoes and also in case I encounter other Spanish family pets I need to murder.

Freedom! Liberty! Justice!

Ellie tells a great story about the Blister Family. Niklas sings 'Blister Family' to the same tune as 'Addams Family.' They are American and are a mom, dad, and two sons. They have been suffering from blisters from the beginning. Every day or so Ellie would see them, and they would talk about how bad their feet were. One day when Ellie passed them, Blister Dad asked weakly if the blisters ever got better. They were thinking of quitting the Camino and spending the rest of their vacation in Madrid. Ellie then saw them two or three days later, and Blister Mom had a huge grin on her face. They decided to continue! Ellie said it was the American way, and the family was proud they had toughed it out. Love them!

Most Europeans have never known someone named Brooke before. When they meet me, I usually get the following responses:
Like Brooke Shields?
Exactly.
-Or-
Oh! Like the English word 'broke' but with a 'U.'
Thanks for that Mom and Dad.

An Australian met an American who thought Austria and Australia were the same country, and that Austria was an abbreviation for Australia. I tried to defend them by saying maybe they misunderstood, but the Australian woman said she was in disbelief at first and made sure there was no confusion.

John is impressed that I am well travelled considering my age and nationality. When he did Route 66 with his family, he met an American girl that did not know where Ireland was. He said for an American I am brilliant, but in comparison to a European I am normal.

Justin and Patrick decided to do the Camino after watching a segment on KPBS. They are lifelong friends. Justin is in a wheelchair, and Patrick is pushing him. Along with some friends, they are making a documentary about the journey. Their website is illpushyou.com. Many pilgrims have harnessed in to help Patrick push along the way. It has been great walking alongside them. How inspiring! I can't wait to watch it.

America!

Final Steps

I made it to the final stage!

Stage 1: Basque Country and Navarra (162.9km)
Stage 2: La Rioja and Castilla y Leon (123.4km)
Stage 3: Meseta (231.9km)
Stage 4: Cantabrian Mountains and El Bierzo (100.9km)
Stage 5: Galicia (159.6km) and home to Santiago de Compostela!

I feel my personal stages parallel the ones above:
Stage 1: Adjusting to pilgrim life, combating soreness and fatigue
Stage 2: Walking for sport, considering speed and distance
Stage 3: Becoming social, listening to motivations and inspirations
Stage 4: Facing fears, self-reflection, introspection
Stage 5: ? Closure? Sense of accomplishment?

I learned that ninety percent of inhabitants speak Galician, whereas only thirty percent of Basques speak Basque.

The hike up to O Cebreiro (1200m) was spectacular. I am grateful for the change of landscape. An old Spanish man gave me a rose from his garden to smell on my way up the mountain. I stopped for a scenic lunch break and was joined by Christian from France. I found an avocado for my bocadillo! It made my Californian heart sing. Christian works in insurance and hates it. He is on sabbatical but plans to retire in May even though he is only fifty-six. He began the Camino from his home with his best friend of twenty-five years. After day twenty and many arguments, his friend quit and went home! I told him I hope they can work out their friendship, but he said he can't be bothered. I told him in that case I would take a photo of him in front of the Cathedral to send to his friend.

Christian thinks America sucks. He hates paying high taxes but believes in the French system of free education. He will never watch 'The Way' because it is American. He also said, "Who cares there is a black man in the White House? When I see a Native American with a headdress as president, then I'll think America has changed." Simmer down! He does not dislike friendly, American girls on the Camino though. He treated me to coffee once.

I took my first public shower in the town. I value cleanliness over modesty. It wasn't all that bad.

I spent hours looking at the view. A lot of folks drive to the top because of the climb, so for the first time since St. Jean we saw souvenir shops. I watched the sun go downish (I can't watch the sunset because it is past curfew) with Matt from Florida. He is one of the few people I have spoken with whose pilgrimage is a religious one. He recently graduated from college and is moving to Chicago to serve underprivileged youth with the Franciscans. He is considering becoming a priest! I appreciated his patience while answering all of my silly questions. We talked about JPII, Pope Francis, whether priests will ever be allowed to marry, how to become a priest, and other places he plans to serve. He told me a great story about his friend Bobby Angel, who was completing the final stage before becoming a priest when he fell in love with a woman he saw at a JPII talk. The church offered him a two year period to figure it out, but he terminated right then and there. What a love story! Matt seems like a devout dude, which is refreshing.

Newbies

I have nothing bad to say about Ponferrada. I hung out at a castle, Xenia and I shared Japanese prunes that she picked, I ate scrumptious ice cream, and I soaked my feet in a fountain. I agreed to meet Fabricio from Italy in Villafranca del Bierzo the next day. He is paying for his Camino by doing hair wraps. Niklas waited with me, so Fabricio included designs inspired by the American, Italian, and German flags. It made me miss Coral!

I passed through the Puerta del Perdon, where pilgrims that were too sick to continue to Santiago could walk across and receive the same indulgences. New faces started popping up in Villafranca. Fresh pilgrims have an extra skip in their step and a twinkle in their eye. The vibe is different. There are more groups, which changes the conversation dynamic. I appreciate that more Spanish is spoken. Some answer their cell phones while walking, which is jarring when you are used to the soft crunching of boots on the path and the sound of wind through the trees. I felt some of the boys were being insensitive to these pilgrims. Niklas kept calling them Americans! I explained that although their experience will undoubtedly be different from ours, it is still their Camino. It is unfair to be dismissive of their journey. I don't think Jasmine, who began from her doorstep in Belgium ninety days ago, thinks any less of our pilgrimage just because we started in St. Jean. We have a lot to teach and share with them, and we should not minimize their participation. Not everyone is fortunate enough to take off thirty-three days of work!

Love, Sex, and Camino Magic

Ronceban consisted of a hippie commune on top of a hill. There was no wifi in the entire village, and one of them told me the pueblo is quiet nine months out of the year. I ordered the vegetarian pilgrim's menu, which included hummus! It was a welcome switch-up.

I believe my lips are having a reaction to the amount of salt in the food. I am beginning to look like Angelina Jolie.

I laid in a field on the hilltop while I enjoyed the view. One of the hospitaleros, or albergue volunteers, finished the Camino and liked Ronceban so much he came back to live there. He told me they specialize in yoga that awakens the sexual self, and they were offering it at eight am the following morning. The class consisted of a lot of fire breathing, and at the end the teacher tucked us into a blanket like a mummy. It was definitely a different way to begin a day of hiking. I was proud of the boys for attending. At the end of class, I saw the teacher kiss two of the female residents. Things got weird! There was love in the air. I saw chicks, puppies, and kittens. Everyone seemed to be getting down at the compound.

I hiked to the highest point on the Camino, although it certainly did not feel like it. I left a rock at Cruz Ferro and made a wish. I placed mine next to the rocks from some dudes named Javier, Emilio, and Victor. I liked that they had Latin names. As we ascended and descended the mountain, it rained on me for the first time. A good friend once told me to walk in the rain because it is cleansing, so I happily took in the experience. I stumbled into a small cafe where I had the best cup of coffee of my life. We all gathered inside to get out of the rain. Folks dried off in front of the fireplace. Is this what non-Californians experience when it rains and snows? It was picturesque. Rain hiking makes me a true peregrino. I wouldn't dare hike in those conditions at home, but I had a good time. It was playful and a little absurd.

Other thoughts of the day:
I take back every negative thought I have ever had about the weight of my fleece. It is a godsend!

I only know the entire lyrics of a few songs. I thought I knew a whole lot more, but without the instrumental, I am nothing.

I have been invited to join a Hastings Dungeons and Dragons crew. DREAMS DO COME TRUE.

#that'ssocamino

I finally got a chance to chat with Ellie from Italy and Niklas from Germany. Ellie pointed out that I hide my mouth when I laugh out loud, and she told me to never conceal my smile again. Will do girlfriend!

She talked to me a lot about passion. We discussed how to be the people we have become off the Camino. When I turn my back at Finesterre and leave my old self behind, it does not end there for me. How do I follow my passions? How do I face my fears? How do I find time to silence noise and listen? What do I really want to do? Niklas and I made a pact to get tattoos, swim at Finesterre, go to San Fermin, and come back to do the Camino someday. I have become passion-obsessed and cannot stop thinking about it. I want them to change and develop. How do I make sure they are incorporated into my life?

The cities and towns keep getting better and better. I absolutely loved Astorga. It was the hardest city for me to walk away from. There was a wonderful garden, the locals invited us to a BBQ birthday party, and the hostel had a beautiful view from the terrace. Everyone was so hospitable. It was a loveable little town.

Niklas also made another promise - to make schnitzel! It was perfection. We bought everything for only twenty euros. We had potatoes, schnitzel with lemon, baguette with tomato and salt, and beer. It was seriously divine. He asked me to make him BBQ in Santiago, but I think he will be sorely disappointed.

We ate too many tapas during the USA v. Germany match. He was one happy German. We were cracking each other up and decided it was one of our favorite Camino days so far. It is unbelievable how soon this is over. I'm sad!

I have spoken with a few Europeans that say they will include the Camino as an accomplishment on their resume. I asked Niklas what he thought it would represent to potential employers. We decided on determination, drive, and the ability to think differently.

The experience has been awakening. I have had to be honest with myself about what I want. Normally I think 'Will I do it?' and my mindset has changed to 'How will I do it?' This mentality can't be something I leave in Spain. When Niklas and I choose our return date, will I have accomplished all of my dreams? Why do I ask for advice when I can follow my heart?  Frequently these kind of discussions will occur and we jokingly say, 'That's so Camino,' and we laugh about the direction our minds go and where our conversations drift.

I can't believe I have not travelled alone before this trip. It's great! I do what I want, when I want every single day! I have always wanted to hike Half Dome, but I have not convinced someone to go with me. Why don't I just go already? I'm doing it. Why is it custom to set New Years resolutions focusing on what I haven't been doing (working out, saving money, eating better) and have a theme I can positively apply to my life's experiences throughout the year instead?

Belinda told me she wants to return and be the kind of person that talks to her neighbor on a plane. For the first time I feel I am truly hearing names and stories. I want the people I speak with to feel like they are the most important thing in that moment, like how so many Camino friends have made me feel. I want to be as enriched, fearless, open, authentic, friendly, inquisitive, giving, and honest at home as I have been on the Camino.