Final Steps

I made it to the final stage!

Stage 1: Basque Country and Navarra (162.9km)
Stage 2: La Rioja and Castilla y Leon (123.4km)
Stage 3: Meseta (231.9km)
Stage 4: Cantabrian Mountains and El Bierzo (100.9km)
Stage 5: Galicia (159.6km) and home to Santiago de Compostela!

I feel my personal stages parallel the ones above:
Stage 1: Adjusting to pilgrim life, combating soreness and fatigue
Stage 2: Walking for sport, considering speed and distance
Stage 3: Becoming social, listening to motivations and inspirations
Stage 4: Facing fears, self-reflection, introspection
Stage 5: ? Closure? Sense of accomplishment?

I learned that ninety percent of inhabitants speak Galician, whereas only thirty percent of Basques speak Basque.

The hike up to O Cebreiro (1200m) was spectacular. I am grateful for the change of landscape. An old Spanish man gave me a rose from his garden to smell on my way up the mountain. I stopped for a scenic lunch break and was joined by Christian from France. I found an avocado for my bocadillo! It made my Californian heart sing. Christian works in insurance and hates it. He is on sabbatical but plans to retire in May even though he is only fifty-six. He began the Camino from his home with his best friend of twenty-five years. After day twenty and many arguments, his friend quit and went home! I told him I hope they can work out their friendship, but he said he can't be bothered. I told him in that case I would take a photo of him in front of the Cathedral to send to his friend.

Christian thinks America sucks. He hates paying high taxes but believes in the French system of free education. He will never watch 'The Way' because it is American. He also said, "Who cares there is a black man in the White House? When I see a Native American with a headdress as president, then I'll think America has changed." Simmer down! He does not dislike friendly, American girls on the Camino though. He treated me to coffee once.

I took my first public shower in the town. I value cleanliness over modesty. It wasn't all that bad.

I spent hours looking at the view. A lot of folks drive to the top because of the climb, so for the first time since St. Jean we saw souvenir shops. I watched the sun go downish (I can't watch the sunset because it is past curfew) with Matt from Florida. He is one of the few people I have spoken with whose pilgrimage is a religious one. He recently graduated from college and is moving to Chicago to serve underprivileged youth with the Franciscans. He is considering becoming a priest! I appreciated his patience while answering all of my silly questions. We talked about JPII, Pope Francis, whether priests will ever be allowed to marry, how to become a priest, and other places he plans to serve. He told me a great story about his friend Bobby Angel, who was completing the final stage before becoming a priest when he fell in love with a woman he saw at a JPII talk. The church offered him a two year period to figure it out, but he terminated right then and there. What a love story! Matt seems like a devout dude, which is refreshing.